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The story of Hiroshima is one of constant reinvention. Originally a medieval fishing village, it became a castle town in the 16th century, during the years of feudal Japan. After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, it evolved again into a thriving commercial, industrial, and military hub—until the morning of August 6, 1945, when the United States made it the first-ever warfare target of an atomic weapon, leveling nearly 70% of the city and claiming 140,000 lives.
In the nearly 80 years since the dropping of Little Boy, Hiroshima rebuilt itself into an eclectic modern metropolis of 1.2 million and brands itself as a city of peace, a point Japanese prime minister (and Hiroshima political scion) Fumio Kishida emphasized recently when the municipality hosted the G7 summit. You may have heard of or visited Peace Memorial Park, but there’s so much more to the city today than the events of the Second World War.
Here, a guide to the wide-ranging wonders of Hiroshima today.
Taste the Terroir
Some of Japan’s most famous sake is produced in Hiroshima prefecture’s Saijo region, thanks in part to the uniquely soft water that springs from the Chugoku Mountains. But adjacent Setouchi is one of Japan’s leading grape-producing regions, and Setouchi Jozojo Winery is attempting to drum up further interest in their wines, using local berries and grapes that express the Setouchi terroir. A minimalist architectural stunner that opened in 2021 on the site of a former shipyard overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, it comprises a winery, a wine shop, and a restaurant serving seasonal cuisine. In the early spring, pruned grape branches serve as kindle for wood-fired dishes made of ingredients from the nearby sea and mountains, served al fresco, barbecue-style.
A Hidden Port Steps into the Spotlight
If you’re looking to get a sense of Japan’s idyllic small towns and feel like you’ve stepped back in time, the ancient port town of Mitarai, on an island in the heart of the Seto Inland Sea, is worth a stop. Meander through its charming, serene streets and narrow alleyways full of beautifully preserved Japanese houses, some of which have stood for more than two centuries. (It’s one of only three historic preservation districts in Hiroshima prefecture.) You’ll pass homes adorned with seasonal flower arrangements and may come across locals tending their plots in a communal garden; farmers also cultivate citrus orchards on the hills behind the town. (Local fruit is sold roadside on the honor system.) Virtually unknown to the larger world before a catastrophic 1991 typhoon, Mitarai has gained international attention of late as a key setting of the 2021 Oscar-winning film Drive My Car, in which the main character, a stage director, stays in a traditional house along the water and finds it a peaceful place of contemplation.
An Epicurean’s Retreat
The Bella Vista Spa and Marina Onomichi is a gorgeous hideaway resort about 90 minutes up the coast from Hiroshima, with all rooms offering stunning panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea. By day, enjoy the spa’s sea-facing open-air onsen, infinity pool, and private beach. By night take advantage of the telescopes and guest astronomers at the stargazing terrace (grab one of the thoughtfully provided puffers in the lobby if you get chilly). The Setouchi Sobo restaurant, one of five on-site, specializes in traditional Japanese cuisine made with local ingredients—don’t miss the chance to choose the ingredients for your own furikake (rice seasoning), made tableside with various tiny yet tasty sea creatures, seaweeds, and seasonings. Be sure to save room for a bowl of Onomichi ramen, served as a nightly complimentary midnight snack.
The resort boasts a well-curated gift shop, where I picked out a Setouchi lemon jam: After all, Hiroshima prefecture is the top producer of lemons in Japan, and they’re so prized here they can be difficult to find outside the area. Lemosco, a citrusy-lemon cousin of Tabasco that’s a Hiroshima specialty, makes another excellent souvenir.
Zoom-Zoom Through History
The Mazda factory looks surprisingly humble for a place that pumps out around a million vehicles a year and just opened a very glossy museum on the premises last year. But looking in need of a fresh coat of paint is actually a point of pride for the hometown company—it was the only building in the area left standing after the atomic bombing, a mountain largely shielding it from the blast a mere three miles away. In the aftermath, the factory briefly served as headquarters for the local government and national broadcasters. A tour through the museum will take you through Mazda’s 100-year history, from the original 1931 three-wheel trucks (easier to maneuver on Japan’s narrow roads) to my childhood dream car, the MX-5 Miata, and a look at the plant’s always-operating mixed-model assembly line; peek through factory windows to see gigantic ships sitting at Mazda’s three ports, equipped to deliver 11,000 vehicles at once to far-flung destinations around the world.
A Salute to Curry
Today, curry is a staple of the everyday Japanese citizen’s diet, but it was actually brought by the British from India during the Meiji Restoration. The Japanese navy found the dish an inexpensive yet appetizing approach to combating thiamine deficiency with its meat and flour—and they still eat it every Friday on the ships, a tradition originally instituted to mark the passing of time during long stretches at sea.
Kure, 10 miles south of Hiroshima, was once a mighty naval and weapons center. Still a base for the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, it’s now well known for its many restaurants serving up signature curries. At Minatomachi Coffee, we sit on the patio overlooking a half-dozen naval submarines warming up their engines at the docks, with baby-faced seamen striding toward them in their civilian clothes. It’s hands-down the most delectable curry of my life, decadent with gyusuji (beef tendon) that melts in your mouth.
While in town, grab a few boxes of curry roux to take back with you (each ship has a slightly different recipe, and some teach it to curry joints onshore) as well as spoons designed specifically for enjoying curry and rice. If you need a jolt of caffeine after, you’re in luck: the town is also known for coffee, another provision necessary for extended periods on a sea vessel. Head to the Subaru Coffee Shop for its so-called navy coffee; legend says the owner tinkered for years to re-create the coffee that fueled the crew of the Yamato, one of the largest battleships ever built.
Spirited Away
Opened in 2019, the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum was the first dedicated to the Japanese folk spirits, monsters, and supernatural beings known collectively as yōkai. Its collection contains some 5,000 artworks and objects, from scroll paintings and woodblock prints to artifacts, life-sized models, and interactive displays, all of which evoke a sense of the unknown among us. (A personal favorite: the Edo-period tale of a hero who exterminates demons by breaking wind.) Its location in the city of Miyoshi happens to be the setting of one of the most famous and influential Edo-era folktales, in which a young boy confronts a yōkai monster every day for a month. Don’t miss making your own yōkai and then seeing it brought to animated life in a dazzling room-size display by TeamLab.
Shelling Out
In terms of food, most visitors will quickly learn that Hiroshima is known for an elaborate, layered version of okonomiyaki that incorporates noodles. But it’s also the largest producer of oysters in Japan, with 60% of the country’s oysters coming from the area, where they’ve been farmed for the past 450 years. Kakigoya Ujina in seaside Minato Park is one of several spots in Hiroshima where you can sit around a charcoal grill and cook your own oysters, as well as all kinds of seafood, meat, and other delicacies. Do wear the aprons they provide (shells on the grill are prone to squirting and popping), and don’t wear your finest clothes, as you’re sure to leave smelling (deliciously) like barbecue.
A Bird’s-Eye View
Towering over Peace Memorial Park is the 12-floor Orizuru Tower, open since 2016 and one of the few tall buildings around the park. Browse the street-level souvenir shop, full of made-in-Hiroshima products, like the renowned Kumano brushes for writing and beauty. Head to the rooftop observation deck for a panoramic open-air view of the area, which includes the brand-new retail and community space Hiroshima Gate Park Plaza (on the site of the original home of the beloved Hiroshima Toyo Carp baseball team). There’s also a lesser-seen back view of the Atomic Bomb Dome (now a UNESCO World Heritage site), whose steel frame managed to withstand the impact of the bomb to become a symbol of devastation, resiliency, and peace.